The Coromandel Peninsula

Tairua is about halfway up the east coast of the Coromandel Peninsula, which looks like a finger of mountainous land sticking into the Pacific. From here, the Pacific Coast Highway continues north more or less following the coastline, then cuts across to the west coast to Coromandel itself, before continuing south on the west coast.

As soon as we left Tairua we started climbing, then quickly came back down to the coast. This was to be the pattern for the day, as the road just crosses any mountain that gets in the way. We stopped off at Hot Water Beach, where hot water bubbles out of the sand at low tide. Then we called in to Cathedral Cove for a coffee and an apricot and ginger slice. We were going to visit the cove, but we discovered it was an hour’s walk from the car park and we needed to get on.

After another hour or so of climbing and descending we found ourselves at the top of yet another peak, but this time with a spectacular view down into Coromandel town. Which was basking in sunshine!

We made our way to the Driving Creek Railway and Potteries, just north of the town. Created by a potter named Barry Brickell, this is a 3km narrow-gauge railway that climbs to the summit of a 22 hectare piece of land overlooking Coromandel. Brickell had no engineering qualification, but over the course of 40 years or so, he surveyed the land and hand-built not only the track but also the rolling stock that travels along it. And he did it to transport the clay and wood that he needed to create his pottery.

The route is so steep that there are two places where the train has to change direction to get up the incline. There are also three tunnels, two horseshoe-shaped curves and a double-level viaduct along the way. The steepest incline, on a bridge, is 1 in 15, and the track is lined with Brickell’s pottery.

The train we took is called Snake as it has two articulated sections that allow it to bend on the sharp curves. A second train, called Possum, with only a single car, followed us up the track – and preceded us down! The driver not only has to drive, but also give a running commentary, change points and switch ends when we changed direction.

There are several stations along the way, until you finally reach the last station, called Eyefull Tower. At 165 metres above sea level, you have a panoramic view over the Hauraki Gulf and surrounding forests.

If you want to watch a representation of the ride, go to their web site and click Start. There’s also a lot more information about the building of the railway and about the conservation work taking place on the land.

After that, we checked in to the Top 10 site nearby, then set off to see Coromandel. Considering the town gave its name to the whole peninsular it is quite an insignificant place. After walking the length of the main street, we took a track up to a lookout point. You suddenly pop out of the forest at the top and get a fantastic view of the bay and the countryside. Both on land and at sea, there just seems to be layer upon layer of peaks disappearing into the distance. Well worth it for the view and for working off this morning’s apricot and ginger slice.